Brassiere



Aug. 5, 1947. J A COLEMAN 2,425,145

BRASSIERE Filed April 3, 1947 s Sheets-Sheet 1 JNVENTOR. JOSEPH A. COLEMAN A 7' TORNE Y- Al lg, 5, 1947. J; A. COLEMAN BRASSIERE Filed April 8, 1947 s Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG-.6.

, INVENTOR. JOSEPH A. COLEMAN ATTORNEY Aug. 5, 1947. J. A. COLEMAN BRASSIERE Filed April 8, 1947 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 F IG.8.

INVENTOR. JOSEPH A. COLEMAN ATTOR/VEX Patented Aug. 5, 1947 BRAssIERE Joseph A. Coleman, New York, N.'Y., assignor to Maiden Form Brassiere Company, Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application April 8, 1947,.Serial No. 740,074

7 Claims.

In one of its aspects, this invention relates to a new and improved type of brassire. In another of its aspects it relates to and revolves about the elimination of the conventional pocket seam in the fabrication of a brassiere breast pocket.

In the customary brassire whose pockets are separately formed, these pockets are fabricated from fabric sectionsof .such configuration and so united as to preshape theassembly to a desired pocket formation for receiving, shaping and elevating the breasts of the wearer; this preshaped formation terminating in an apex within which-and by which it is intended that the nipple of the breast of the wearer shall be held elevated and shaped.

In this customary brassiere, the apex of each pocket is predeterminedly located with reference to the central vertical line of the brassiere front for a particular sized brassiere and therefor the spacing between the "apices of the two pockets of the brassiere are also predetermined and fixed for that size. This customary type of brassire presents this shortcoming, among others. Brassieres are sized for the individual, entirely by bust line measurement and are identical in every respect for all wearers so sized. It is, however, an anatomical fact that the inter-mammillary space between the nipples of individuals having the same bust line measurements varies by as much as 4 inches. No provision is made in the customary garment for this variation.

One of the objects of my invention is the provision of a brassiere pocket so constructed and devised that in conforming the contained'breast of the wearer to its own conformation, its conformation will be so changed that the pocket apex for the nippl will be automatically formed at the approximate point where the nipple of that wearer is located so that the distance between the apices of the twopockets when on the wearer will correspond to the spacing between the nipples of that individual.

Another shortcoming of the customary brassiere provided with separately formed pockets, is th fact that each pocket for ap-articular size brassiere is formed so as to receive and contain an idealized size of breast, whereas it is an anatomical fact that the breast volume of individuals having the same bust line measurement also varies widely. A further object of my invention is therefore the provision of a breast pocket so constructed and devised that its volumetric capacity will automatically be varied to accommodate variations in the breast volumes as between individuals having the same bust line measurement.

The aforementioned shortcoming in the customary brassiere of the type mentioned is attributable in the main to the presence of the pocket seam which traverses the pocket between spaced points on its perimeter on a line to give the pocket configuration and-to define its apex. I have attained the objects of my invention by so configuring the parts from which the brassiere pocket is fabricated and so assembling these parts that the aforementioned pocket seam is dispensed with. I thereby attain also the further objectives of reducing the amount of seaming that is required and particularly that seaming operation which requires special skill.

A general object of my invention is the provision of a new and improved pocket for a brassire and of a new and. simplified method for its production.

Before proceeding to'describe the specific embodiments of myinvention which are illustrated in the drawings, I will premise that the brassiere pocket is made of two fabric sections joined only by side seams and otherwise free of each other and that while the configuration of these fabric sections may vary widely from those shown in the drawings without departing from the spirit of my invention, they nevertheless will possess in common those characteristics whereby the objectives are attained.

The aforementioned embodiments of my inventionand the procedure to be followed in their fabrication are illustrated in the accompanying drawings wherein:

Fig. 1 is a top view of a fabric section from which is formed one member of a breast pocket of the improved brassire;

Fig. lais a similar view of the fabric section of Fig. 1, doubled over symmetrically about a fold line;

Fig. 2 is a top view of a fabric section from which is formed the other member of said breast pocket;

Fig. 2a is a similar view of said fabric section of Fig. 2 doubled over symmetrically about a fold line;

Fi 3 is a top view of the said two members (Figs. la and 2a) partly assembled in forming the right pocket of the improved brassire;

Fig. 4 is a similar top view of the two members partly assembled in forming the left pocket of the improved brassire;

Fig. 5 is atop view of the partly assembled pocket members of Fig. 4, after being reversed so 3 that their seamed end is at the right, rather than at the left as in Fig. 4, with the distal end of the upper fabric sections lifted upwardly (out of the plane of the drawing) Fig. 5a. is a view similar to Fig. 5 but showing the lower fabric section lifted upwardly, with its distal end joined with the previously lifted (Fig. 5) end of the upper section;

Fig. 6 is a. perspective view of the improved brassire employing pockets fabricated as shown in Figs. 5a, 5 and 4;

Fig. '7 is a top view similar to that of Fig. 4 but with the distal end of the lower fabric section lifted upwardly, as the initial departure in making a modified form;

Fig. 7a is a view similar to Fig. '7 but showing the upper fabric section lifted upwardl with its distal end joined with the previously lifted (Fi '7) end of the lower fabric section; and

Fig. 8 is a perspective view of the modified version of the improved brassiere employing the pocket fabricated as shown in Figs. 7a and '7.

Figs. 1, 1a, 2, 2a, 3, 4, 5, 5a, 7 and 70. all show the two component parts and their manner of assembly to form one of the two breast pockets of the improved brassire, and in all of the enumerated figures, except Fig. 3, the component parts relate to the formation of the left breast pocket, as received in the finished brassire, Figs. 6 and 8. (The two embodiments of the finished pocket are shown in Figs. 5a and 7a, respectively, and these figures should be compared with the completed brassire of Figs. 6 and 8, respectively.)

The two fabric sections or members constituting the pocket, shown in Figs. 1, 1a, 2 and 2a, are employed in both modifications of the invention (more fully distinguished below). These pocket members constitute the lower member, Figs. 1 and 1a, and the upper member, Figs. 2 and 2a. The lower and upper members shown in Figs. 1 and 2, respectively, represent the fabric section or cut blanks 2i and II, respectively, from which the two members (Figs. la and 2a) are formed by folding upon the lines YY and X-X, respectively. It will be observed from Figs. 1 and 2 that the blanks or fabric sections 2|, l l are symmetrical about their respective fold axes YY, X-X. There are thus formed two folded edges, viz: 22 in the member 20 (Fig. 1a.), and I2 in the member I!) (Fig. 2a).

For convenience of disclosure, the member 20 is shown in Fig. 1a as having its fold edge 22 at the top and the member IE is shown in Fig. 20. as having its fold edge l2 at the bottom.

Both pocket forming member 20, Fig. 1a, and pocket forming member I0, Fig. 2a, are truncated triangular figures, wherein their said fold edges, respectively 22 and I2, constitute the base thereof. In pocket member 20, Fig. 1a, the truncated edge 23 is parallel to the base line 22 (so that the figure of this member is generally a trapezium), while this truncated line of member l0, Fig. 2a, is neither parallel to base line I 2 or is it a straight line (as is truncated edge 23). The truncated edge of member [0, Fig. 2a, is constituted of a minor arcuate line H, a major arcuate line and a short intermediate line H.

Pocket forming member 28, Fig. 1a, is not truly a trapezium because it is constituted of six, rather than four, sides. The figure may nevertheless be considered as triangular and truncated because two of the non-parallel edges, designated 26 and 21, Fig. 1a, are much more pronounced than the other two non-parallel edges 28 and 29, and do taper away from the base edge 22. The two non-parallel edge sections 28 and 29, whose purpose will be pointed out hereafter, are relatively short and may be considered as cutoff edges since they may be viewed as formed by cutting off the corners at the base edge 22 and the tapering sides 26, 21.

The other pocket forming member I0, Fig. 2a, has tapering sides or edges l6, H, which are similar to the tapering sides 26, 21 of member 20, Fig. 1a.

The initial step in the assembly of parts 20 and I0 is shown in Figs. 3 and 4 and before this initial step is set forth in detail, it will be pointed out that Figs. 3 and 4 are mirror images of each other.

Referring first to Fig. 4, it will be observed that the member 29 of Fig. 1a has been reversed from its showing in that figure and superimposed upon reversed member IQ of Fig. 2a to bring the edge 27 of the member 26 into superimposed registration with the right edge I! of member ID as it is shown in Fig. 2a. In Fig 3, however, neither member has been reversed and the member 20 superimposed upon member l0 with its right edge 21 as it is shown in Fig. la, in superimposed registration with the edge H, which is at the right end of member ID. It will now be pointed out that Fig. 3 forms the initial assembly for the right pocket and Fig. 4 for the left pocket. The next step in the assembly of parts 10 and. 20 in both Figs. 3 and 4 is to seam together the registering edges 21 and I1. Upon viewing these figures it will be observed that the registration of edges 21 and Il also registers edge 29 of member 2|] with the outer end portion of edges l5 of member l9 and the members are seamed together also along these registering edges, which actually are continuations of edges H and 21. In actual practice the joining seam will start at the upper end of edge section 29 of member 28 and continue through edge portions 29 and 21. The edges 21 and 11 are shown as of the same length and are therefore coterminous when in superimposed relation. This initial assembly of members 20 and H) results in the V-shaped or V-notched configuration shown in Figs. 3 and 4. In this relation of the members l0 and 2D, the folded edges l2 and 22 of these members are opposite one another and define the V-formaticn shown in these fisures.

As already pointed out, the assemblies of Figs. 3 and 4 are mirror images of each other and each is comprised of members 20 and In which may be identical in all respects for both assemblies and the difference in the showings of Figs. 3 and 4 resides wholly in the changed relationship of these members preparatory to the initial seaming operation which is also similar for both figures. As a result, the relationship of these two members shown in Fig. 3 contemplates the fabrication of a right pocket and that shown in Fig. 4 contemplates the fabrication of a left pocket.

The manner in which a pocket is completed will be disclosed first by reference to the completion of the left pocket from the assembly of Fig. 4. Generally stated, the left pocket is completed merely by bringing the free edge section 26 and 28 of the member 28 into registration with the free edge section l6 of the member H! which will bring the edge section 28 into registration with the right end of edge section [4 of the member In and the registering edges then seamed together, preferably by starting at the upper edge of the section 28 and running downwardly and outwardly to the point B which is the lowerright hand corner of the member It in Fig. f4. The edge section 28 is shown as of the same length as the edge section It and these two sections will therefore be coterminous in their registered position and this in turn will properly registerthe edge 28 with the outer portion of the edge 1-4.

The assembly step just described asperformed in actual practice will be set forth by reference to the figures in the drawings. Beiore'do'ing so however, it will be pointed out that this registration of the free edges and their seaming in-this further step of assembly will be -'ilisclose'izl herein as effected in either of two alternative ways to arrive atthe two embodiments shown respectively in Figs. 5, 5aand 6 and in Figs. 7, 'l'aand 8.

A preferred manner in which the registration of the edges and their seaming to arrive at the embodiment shown in Fig. 5a will be described first by reference to Fig. 5 wherein the-distal portion of the member l0, that is the portion at the left end furthest removed from 'joined edges i1, 2lis raised upwardly (out of the plane of the drawing) from the dot-and-dash position of member It to the solid line showing. In this raised position of member Ill, its tapered side edge It is parallel to the other side edge I! (and also to edge 21 of the other member '2'E!,as clearly seen in Fig. 5).

'Next, the distal portion of member is then raised in the same manner, see now Fig. 5a., and its distal tapering side 26 is brought into coterminous relation to the distal tapering edge 1B of the previously raised member Iii. When the sec-- ond member '20 is thus raised to join the previously raised member It, there is formed abreast pocket, or rather, a potential breast'po'cket, inasmuch as the pocket is really created by the interaction of pocket member 10,-2t with thebreast itself, as will be more fully explained subse quently. It will be observed that now'all fo'ur tapering or side edges H, -27 and I6, 28 are parallel, Fig, 5a.

It will be observed from a comparisonof Figs. 4 and 5, that the assembly of Fig. 4 is shown reversed in Fig. 5, for reasons to be pointed out. The pocket completed in-Fig. 5a (and designated generally I) constitutes, as previously stated, the left breast pocket I of the improved brassire shown in Fig. 6. The right breast pocket is designated I in Fig. 6 and is formed in asimilar manner from similar two members; the formation of the right pocket is not shown in the drawings, but in Fig. 6, the parts of the right pocket E are designated to correspond to the' similar parts of the left pocket I andaredistinguished therefrom by the exponent X.

It will be seen from Fig. 6 that the-joinededge ll, 2! of the left pocket I (see also-Fig. 5a.) are sewed to the joined edges il 21 of the rig-ht pocket, to form the central frontseam of the garment; also that the other joined edges 56, 26 of the left pocket (seea lso'Fig. 5d) are sewed to the left back band 1 of the b'rassiere; the corresponding edges I-G 26 of the right pocket are secured to the right back band 1 It will also be seen from Figs. 6 and fia, that the minor arcuate curve it forms the under-arm cut-out of the garment; similarlygthfe minorarcuate curve 5 4 of therighthalf. The shoulder strap 3 is connected between the-back band 1, and the short intermediate edge 13 of member "Ill; similarly, the shoulder strap 3 of the right breast pocket, Fig. 6; the connection at the edge is, itbeing through an adjustable-fastener ble- 1 6 vice 3'. The truncated parallel edge 23 ormember 20, see Fig. 5, after the raising of this member, as in Fig. 5a, becomes the lower rim of the bra'ssierel igfi or rather, of the left breast'pocket- I; the loWer-rim constituting the lower edge of right pocket is designated 23 in Fig. 6.

The modification of the invention shown in Figs. 7, 7a and '8, also shown as-the left breast pocket, is similarly constructed of two members which are, together with parts thereof, desig= hated in correspondence with the modification of Figs. 4, 5, 5a and 6. The only difference between the two modifications concerns the order in which the two members are turned or raised upwardly (Figs. 5-5a and 7--7a). These differences are readily seen by comparing Figs. 5, 5a and Figs. '7, 7a. In both the modifications of Figs. 5, 5a and Figs. 7,701,, the member it is superposed on member 28. In the modification of Figs. 5, 5a, the superposed or overlying member it is first raised. (a in Fig. 5) and then the underlying member 29 is raised (as in Fig. 5a). On the other hand, in the modification of Figs. '7, 7a, the underlying member 2! is first raised (as in Fig. 7) and the other member it then raised (as in Fig. 7a). As a result, there is no crossing over of the folded edges 42, 22 of the two members 18, 29 in the modification of Figs. 5, 5a (because the overlying member it is first raised) while in the modification of Figs. 7, 7a there will be a crossing-over of the fold edges i2, 22 (because the underlying member 2!) is first raised). This difference (crossing or non-crossing of the two members) is also shown in Fig. 6 relative to the modification of Figs. 5, 5a, and in Fig. 8, relative to the modification of Figs. '7, To. It will be observed from Fig. 6 that the foid edge 22 of member 26 appears (solid line) at the front of the brassiere (rather, its left breast pocket), where as the fold line or edge iii. of the other member H] is completely hidden by outer member 2!! (second to be raised, Fig. 5a). On the other hand, in Fig. 8. fold edge 22 appears, still comparing the left hand pockets, at the front (solid lines) only for about half of the pocket and is hidden by the memberlil for the remaining half; likewise, half of the fold line 52 is visible, the other half being hidden by member 29.

It will'be observed from Fig. 6 (relating to the modification of Figs. 5, 5a) that the fold edge .22 of the member 2% (outer member) and the fold'edge l 2 of the member iii, overlap at a point W. And it will be observed from Fig. 8 (relating to the mod fication of Figs. 7, 7a) that the fold edges '22 and t2 not only overlap at this point W,

but that they also cross-over thereat. This point of overlap and cross-over occurs substantially at the nipples of the respective breasts.

The tapering side'Zl and the short cut-cit edge 29 of the member 20'and the tapering side I? of the member H are of such angularity anddimensions that when the two members are superposed withtheir said edges 21-428 and l'lin registry, as in Figs. 3 and 4, thetwo members will be disposed at a predetermined angle to each other. "This angle can be varied, for different conditions, by changing the angularity of the edges 2129 and ll of members it, 28. As a result of the said angularity of the registering edges 21, 29 and H, and the angular relation between the two members Hi, 29, Figs. 3 and l, their distal edge portions are so disposed relative to each other .as to make possible the bringing of the distal edges into the relative positions as already described with reference to Figs. 5 and It has been explained above that the member ID is first lifted, Fig. 5, and then the member is lifted, Fig. So. (also, in the modified form, the member 20 is first lifted, Fig. '7, then the member i0, Fig. 7a) to complete the pocket. It is important to observe, best by reference to Fig. 4, that the length of the fold edge 22 of the member 20 is appreciably greater than the distance on the other member ID from the pivotal point P between the proximal end of fold edge 22 and the member Hi, and the distal point D on member if at the upper end of tapering side [6 thereof. (It will be observed that the upper end of tapering side 25 of the member 28 is brought into registry with point D, see Fig. 5a). This same relation in lengths also obtains in the case of the other fold edge i2, that is, the length of the fold edge 12 of member ID is appreciably greater than the distance on the other member 20 from the pivotal point P between the proximal end of the fold edge i2 on the member in, and the distal point D on member 28, at the lower end of taporing side 26 thereof. the lower end of tapering side 18 of member iti. e., the distal point of fold edge l2is brought into registry with the point D Fig. 5a). This relation between the length of fold line 22 and distance PD and between fold line H and distance P D is shown in the drawings as of the order of 1% 1.

It will also be observed that the fold edges i2, 22 face and cross one another, Figs. 3, 4. This is the reason why the members it, 28 have been formed from double-sized blanks, respectively, H, 2!, Figs. 2, l and folded on symmetrical axes X-X, Y-Y. There is thus eliminated the need of sewing along this edge and thus the edges I2, 22 are soft and flexible and not stiffened or otherwise disturbed by the presence of raw edges of cloth or by sewing.

It will be understood, however, that the major objects of my invention may be attained even though the fabric sections 20 and iii are made of single ply material, in which event the raw edge can be eliminated by a selvedge.

The procedure for assembling the parts which has been outlined above, has as one of its pur poses that in the event sections I8 and 2B are cut from a fabric which has one side finished and the other side unfinished, the finished side will automatically appear on the outer surface of the garment.

A few observations will now be made of the manner in which the herein disclosed embodiments function to obtain the objectives of my invention; the procedure for fabricating the pockets requires merely cutting, folding and relating the fabric sections for plain seaming at their sides. This procedure is such that the identical fabric sections can be fabricated into either a right pocket or a left pocket or to arrive at either of two pocket types. The suspension of these two fabric sections or pocket members entirely by seams at the sides of the pocket plus the ex cess length of the folded edges 22 and 22 respectively over the distance between the points of suspension of each, automatically produces a pocket formation without the use of a pocket seam and thus overcomes the shortcoming incident to the presence of such seam; while this automatically produced pocket formation will have an apex, this apex will automatically shift laterally to the location of the breast nipple of (It will be observed that the wearer as a consequence of this excess length of the aforementioned fold line and the consequent absence of a seam connecting them; the relation of the members It! and 20 in the finished garment permits a relative up and down movement between these two members to thus accommodate breast volumes which are abnormal for a particular bust size; the embodiment shown in Figs. '7, 7a and 8 in some aspects may be considered as an improvement over the embodiment of Figs. 5, 5a and 6.

I-claim:

1. A brassiere having a pair of breast pockets, each pocket being constituted of two pieces, each piece having inwardly tapering side edges and a base edge defined by two of the terminal points of the said side edges, the other terminal points of the tapering side edges being more closely spaced, the tapering side edges of one piece being conterrninously secured respectively to the tapering side edges of the other piece, with the terminal points of the base edge of one piece disposed, together with the said pair of more closely spaced points of the other piece, at the upper corners of the pocket, and with the terminal points of the base edge of the second mentioned piece disposed, together with said pair of more closely spaced points of said first mentioned piece, at the lower corners of the pocket. 2. A brassire having a pair of breast pockets, each pocket being constituted of two pieces, one of said pieces having inwardly tapering side edges and a base edge defined by two of the terminal points of the said side edges, the other terminal points of the tapering side edges bein more closely spaced, the tapering side edges of said piece being conterminously secured respectively to the side edges of the other piece, with the terminal oints of the base edge of said second piece disposed, together with the said pair of more closely spaced points of the first said piece, at two of the corners of the ocket, and with the teiminal points of the base edge of said first piece disposed at the other two corners of the pocket.

3. A brassiere having a pair of breast pockets, each pocket being constituted of two pieces, each piece having a base edge and inwardly tapering side edges, one of the tapering side edges of one piece being conterminously secured to one of the tapering side edges of the other piece and the other tapering side edges of the first piece bing conterminously secured to the other tapering side edge of the second piece, with the terminal points of the base edges of the two pieces disposed at the opposite ends of the said conterminously secured side edges of the pocket, the portions of the said first piece at its both side edges overlying the portions of the said second piece at its both side edges, whereby the said base edges of the two pieces are uncrossed.

4. A brassierehaving a pair of breast pockets, each pocket being constituted of two pieces, each piece having a base edge and inwardly tapering side edges, one of the tapering side edges of one piece being conterminously secured to one of the tapering side edges of the other piece and the other tapering side edge of the first piece being conterminously secured to the other tapering side edge of the second piece, the portion of the said first piece at one of its said secured side edges overlying the said second piece and the portion of said first piece at its other secured side edge underlying the said second piece, whereby the said base edges of the two pieces are crossed.

5. The method of making a breast pocket for brassires from two pieces of fabric having a base edge and a pair of inwardly tapering side edges, which method comprises the step of disposing one piece on the other in an inclined angular relation with their said base edges facing one another and with a tapering side of one piece in registry with a tapering side edge of the other, securing together the said registered tapering side edges, raising the distal portion of the overlying piece, then raising the distal portion of the underlying piece to bring the distal tapering side edges of the respective pieces into registry, and securing together the said registered distal side edges.

6. The method of making a breast pocket for brassires from tWo pieces of fabric having a base edge and a pair of inwardly tapering side edges, said method comprising the step of disposing one piece on the other in an inclined angular relation with their said base edges facing one another and with a tapering side edge of one piece in registery with the tapering side edge of the other, securing together the said registered tapering side edge, raising the distal portion of the underlying piece, then raising the distal portion of the overlying piece to bring the distal tapering side edges of the respective pieces into registry, and securing together the said registered distal side edges.

7. The method of making a breast pocket for brassieres from two pieces of fabric having a base edge and a pair of inwardly tapering side edges, said method comprising the step of disposing one piece on the other in an inclined angular relation with their said base edges facing one another and with a tapering side edge of one piece in registry with a tapering side edge of the other, securing together the said registered tapering side edge, raising the distal portion of one of the pieces, then raising the distal portion of the other piece to bring the distal tapering side edges of the respective pieces into registry, and securing together the said registered distal side edges.

JOSEPH A. COLEMAN.

REFERENCES (JITED UNITED STATES PATENTS Name Date Mueller Feb. 27, 1934 Number 

